BOOKS REVIEWED IN THIS ARTICLE
Harmony Books, 381 pp., $27.50
Hammond (Maplewood, New Jersey), 175 pp., $5.95 (paper)
Hammond, 160 pp., $6.95 (paper)
A & W, 184 pp., $19.95
A & W, 222 pp., $16.95; $10.95 (paper)
Knapp (Los Angeles), 216 pp., $19.95
Times Books, 296 pp., $12.95
101 Productions (San Francisco), 168 pp., $6.95 (paper)
Knopf, 625 pp., $16.95
Doubleday, 262 pp., $19.95
Houghton Mifflin, 508 pp., $25.00
Atheneum, 436 pp., $16.95
Texas Monthly Press, 284 pp., $15.95
Houghton Mifflin, 246 pp., $19.95
Faber, 184 pp., $16.95
Van Nostrand Reinhold, 157 pp., $10.95
Grosset & Dunlap, 288 pp., $11.95
Grosset & Dunlap, 295 pp., $7.95 (paper)
Harper & Row, 356 pp., $16.75
Houghton Mifflin, 263 pp., $11.95
Simon & Schuster, 345 pp., $16.95
Little, Brown, 576 pp., $29.95
A & W, 224 pp., $14.95
Barron's, 307 pp., $24.95
A new cookbook promises satisfactions beyond those of the table, promises both order and change, security and self-improvement. It is the ultimate readerly text; between its lines one glimpses unfamiliar worlds; compelled by its imperatives, the mind occupies itself in homely tasks, in imagination restocking the cupboards with raspberry vinegar, filling the freezer with brown sauce, veal stock, fish fumet. This gives a pleasant sense of prudence, a hoarding satisfaction, and notions of magical hope. The season's new cookbooks suggest that hopes this year are entirely social and economic; mere eating is not the thing. Like lowered hemlines in hard times, the glossy and expensive volumes announce anxiety, the austere food a certain loss of appetite.
Review, 3238 words
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